Paul De Bondt's Chocolate Mousse

From Paul deBondt, Fred has written down the chocolate mousse recipe:

Chocolate Mousse: (less sugar)
1Kg Cream (35% fat)
1Kg 70% Chocolate (I have a note about 40-42% cocoa butter)
600g Whipped cream

1) Make ganache with initial cream and chocolate
2) cool slightly but still needs to be warm
3) whip the rest of the cream until you have soft, shiny peaks
4) add ganache to whipped cream and mix vigorously
5) when mixture is less than or equaled to 30 degrees C (still liquid and not too stiff) pour into mold or container
6) refrigerate for ~ 2hrs and it's ready


sound right???

A gift from Sanjara

From our own Sanjara, her recipe for the encrusted liquid filled chocolate.
(her brother is better!!!)

and another ganache recipe!

Thanks San !


CRUST LIQUEUR
Definition

Crust liqueur products are chocolates with a liquid filling. The filling may contain alcohol. These products typically consist of a thin sugar crust containing a saturated flavoured sugar solution. The sugar solution consists of

- Sugar, water and alcohol
- Sugar, water, flavours and acidic additives
- Sugar, water and red wine.

These centres are usually covered with chocolate.

Requirements regarding the ingredients

Sugar

To ensure a proper crust, only pure sugar should be used. i.e. it should consist of minimum amount of ash, invert sugar and minerals.

Water

The sugar is dissolved in water. The main function of the water is however the formation of a saturated solution with sugar and alcohol. The water must be of the quality of drinking water with a ph. of 6.5 or 7.

Alcohol

Crust liqueurs mostly contain pure products rather than extracts. The spirits should have an alcohol content of a minimum of 60% volume otherwise the formation of crust is difficult.


Acidic acids

Acidic additives are also used as they carry flavours well and have a cooling effect.
Acids such as citric acid can be used.

Moulding powder

Generally corn or wheat starch with minimum gluten content is used. The wheat starch should be heated to temperature between 30ºC - 50 ºC with a blow drier.


RECIPES

SUGAR CRUST WITH BRANDY


Formulation

750gms sugar
250gms water
200gms brandy – 60%vol.

Method

1. Dissolve sugar in water and cook to 112ºC
2. Cool to 100 ºC
3. Add brandy and mix carefully
4. Deposit into starch (starch temp should be around 45 ºC.)and sieve starch to cover the centre
5. Turn over after 3 hrs carefully without damaging the crust
6.Leave in starch for 24 hrs for drying
7. Sieve from starch and brush away the excess starch. enrobe in chocolate



SUGAR CRUST WITH KIRSCH OR RUM

Formulation

1000gms sugar
400gms water
200gms kirsch 60% vol OR rum 60%vol

Method

As above


SUGAR CRUST WITH RED WINE

Formulation

750gms sugar
250gms water
150gms red wine 67-70% vol
50gms sugar

Method
1.dissolve sugar in water and cook to 114 ºC
2.cool to 110 ºC
3. dissolve icing sugar in red wine and filter to remove particles
4. mix wine mixture carefully with sugar syrup
5. deposit into starch( starch temp 25 ºC- 40 ºC) and sieve starch to cover the centre

6. Turnover deposited crust carefully after 4hrs (turnover is done to give an even distribution of sugar crust. Turnover is usually done with a string or thread to avoid breaking of deposited crust)
7. leave in starch for 24hrs
8. sieve brush and blow to remove starch
9. Enrobe in chocolate.

ALCOHOL FREE SUGAR CRUST LIQUEUR.
Formulation
750gms sugar
250gms water
12cc citric acid
1cc fruit flavour or 15cc fruit juice
Method
1. Dissolve sugar in water and cook to 109 ºC
2.Cool syrup to 65 ºC
3. Add 12cc of citric acid
4.Add fruit flavour
5. Deposit in starch (starch temp. 30 ºC) and sieve starch to cover the centre
6. Turnover after 3hrs
7. Leave in starch for 24hrs.Sieve, brush blow and then enrobe with chocolate


GANACHE
formulation

600g whipping cream(35% fat)
20 g of instant coffee( i prefer dark roast)
5 - 10g of nutmeg (depending upon the palate)
600g hazelnut praline paste
70 honey( u can try maple syrup)
1000g milk chocolate ( 40% cocoa)


for the bases and covers
100g roasted sesame seeds
170g milk chocolate

method

first prepare the bases and covers.
blend the roasted sesame seeds and the tempered milk chocolate
spread the mixture out thinly on a silicon mat
cut round discs for the base and covers when it begins to harden.

bring cream nutmeg and coffee granules to boil, and let the infusions seep
for 3 hrs minimum.
set the kitchen aid with paddle attachment and aerate the praline for 1 min
on speed 3
pour the cream mixture onto the praline in 3 to 4 inclusions and mix till
incorporated on slow speed.
fold in the honey and chocolate with the spatula gently.. combine into a
homogeneous mass. pipe with nozzle no. 10 0r 12 into round balls on the
base.
lay the covers and press them flat.
enrobe with dark chocolate.( i prefer grand cru madagascar(60%) coz of its
fruity and spicy notes)

finish with ur signature note

Luca's Balsamic ganache

diane has already tried the olive oil ganache with great success and asked for the balsamic.

here you go!

Luca Mannori’s Balsamico al Miele
Honey and Balsamic vinegar Ganache

400 grams heavy cream 35% minimum fat content
1 gram fresh rosemary
1/2 lemon zest
100 grams of honey ( strong such as chestnut)
500 grams bittersweet chocolate 55%
100 grams salted butter
80 grams Traditional BalsamicVinegar
80 grams Glucose ( 38 DE)


1. Boil the cream and infuse the lemon and rosemary for 20 minutes. Filtare, pressing well on the lemon and rosemary to get all the essential oils.

2. Add the honey and glucose and let lightly simmer.

3. Drizzle the hot cream onto the chopped chocolate, stirring but not incorporating air.

4. Add the butter, softened and lightly whipped, a little at a time and the balsamic vinegar.

5. pour into mold and let sit 24 hours.

6. Cover with chocolate 55% .


Serve with Kenya Tea sweetened with the same honey.
( there is also an ancient fermented honey drink, Idromiele that he suggest serving with the chocolate.

Luca Mannori

From Luca we got lots of inspiration, on both chocolates and his dessert presentation. I especially LOVE the chocolate spreads and think that it would be a great money maker. Here is a start for your homework!


Cremosa 2003/All’olio d’oliva e sale
Luca Mannor’s Chocolate spread with EVO and salt

For 8 - 250 gram jars.
About 8 cups.


750 grams fondente 55%
750 grams hazelnut paste
70 grams cocoa powder
350 grams EVO
2 grams sea salt ( large flakes)

1. Mix the cocoa in the olive oil.
2. Add the hazelnut paste and the melted chocolate, temper it all and add the salt at the end.
3. Pour into jars. Keep in a cool and dark place.


Luca’s chocolate glaze for cakes
the fabulous dark chocolate glaze on his cakes


150 grams sugar
250 grams water
100 grams heavy cream ( 35%)
150 fruit gelatin ( maybe he means like an apple jelly)
80 grams glucose
60 grams cocoa
7 grams gelatine

1. Place the gelatine in cold water to bloom.
2. Mix everything else together.
3. Heat to 105 C.
4. Turn off the heat and add the gelatin ( if you are using sheets, squeeze out the water.)
5. Stir and keep hermetically in the fridge. 6. Use after tempering.


This recipes are translations from the book, I think he means to bring back to temperature for the glaze,not to temper like chocolates.


I don’t see his recipe for the Setteveli cake, the 7 layer cake he won the championship with,so will have to go back and eat it..and check out the 7 layers!

Tough job!!!

Mattei- Brutti ma Buoni

Here is a home version of the wonderful Brutti ma Buoni we had at Mattei.

I have some advice.. the third time is a charm usually for me.
The products we all cook with vary from place to place, egg sizes, sugar and almonds.

If you find they are spreading too much, there are several things you can do.
Lower the heat.
Add more ground almonds or some flour.

I think the Mattei version was sort of softly undercooked, rather wet still on the inside.

Let's exchange results!



Brutti ma Buoni
Almond cookies- Mattei

There are several versions of this cookie, most all almonds some with hazelnuts or walnuts added. There are two versions, soft like we had at Mattei and a twice cooked crispier version.


Soft
300 grams almonds ( toasted almonds give you a darker cookie)
30 grams bitter almonds ( or essence to taste)
70 grams rice flour ( or cake flour)
400 grams granulated sugar
6 egg whites

1.Roughly chop the almonds in the food processor with the sugar.
2.Add the flour and the egg whites, lightly beaten, one at a time.
3. Cook on baking paper for 30 minutes at 180 C.

Serve dusted with powdered sugar.


Crunchier
400 grams almonds, finely chopped
15 grams bitter almonds ( or add essence to taste)
300 grams sugar
5 egg whites

1. Whip the egg whites, and add the sugar slowly.
2. Fold in the chopped almonds.
3. Cook in a sauce pan over medium heat, for about 30 minutes, the mixture will brown lightly.
DO NOT STOP STIRRING.
4. Place on baking paper and bake 30 to 40 minutes at 180 C.
( leave room for spreading)

Roberto Catinari

Roberto Catinari with his long white beard, is sort of our Tuscan chocolate Santa.
Apprenticed out in Switzerland at the young age of 14, when he returned to his beloved Tuscany he began the Chocolate trends and was the first in the Chocolate Valley.




Last year Roberto gave me his recipe for the sugar encased liquore filled chocolates.
here it is for you to try.


Roberto Catanari's recipe for the liquore filled chocolates.

His simple syrup was:


Dissolve:
1 kg of sugar ( 2.2 lbs)
in 3 dl of water ( which is about 1 1/4 cups) a cup is 2.5dl

Depending on the what liquore you are using is to what temp you cook the syrup.

For a liquore that is from 38-60 proof take the sugar to 110C
3dl of alcohol to 7dl of syrup

A light sherry ( the Italian Vin Santo) is only about 16proof
1 dl of whole grain ( everclear)
2 dl vin santo
7 dl syrup ( cook syrup to 112C)

If you use a really strong liquore like a grappa which is 60 or 70 proof!!!!!
The sugar only gets cooked to 108C

They were made in the wheat starch (white boxes on the side)
The molds were plaster attached to a wooden stick which then rested on the side of the box.

Once poured the filling rests all day to crystalize then is turned and enrobed the next day!
Good luck!

In Italy there is also Pocket Coffee made with the same technique.
I am sure Sanjana also has the REAL recipe and tricks down for us!!!

Roberto's Blend



Roberto Catinari

Giorgia Corsini

Here is the lovely letter from Mrs Corsini I was really moved by it ( but then you saw how easily moved I am!)

Dearest,
I wanted to thank you, Mrs Williams and the students for the visit yesterday.
I had so much fun and it was stimulating to meet and discuss with people so different and interesting.
I hope that I was able to express how much pleasure your visit gave me and what passion, even in our small size,moves our small artisan business: I believe in fact, that besides the techniques, the recipes, the "secrets" the message that I wanted to give to the students was to show what feeds the fire and pushes us every morning , despite bureaucracy, problems, tough clients,and challenges, new things to experiment and try....
If i only expressed a small part of what I feel.. I am happy.

Mille Grazie ( a thousand thanks) and a big hug!
Giorgia, Nicla, Daniela e Marisa

Bruno Corsini
Piazza San Francesca, 42
Pistoia

Ciao!

Welcome to the blog space I have created to fill you in on what we did.. who we met and answer any questions.

To start, I will

1. translate the letter from Mrs. Corsini to the group
2. put the recipe for Roborto Catinari's liquore filled chocolates
3. the recipe for the brutti ma buoni almond cookies we had at Mattei's in Prato.

Anything else?